Chasing Floods-Chiang Mai-Uttaradit-Nan
Topic author: SilverhawkUSA
Subject:Chasing Floods-Chiang Mai-Uttaradit-Nan
DATE: Sat 27th May 2006
(1) Chiang Mai – Den Chai-Uttaradit-Laplae Nan
(1) 11-101 & 102-11-101 Loop
Riders: David Unkovich (Davidfl)- Honda Africa Twin
David Early (Silver Hawk)- Yamaha TDM850
After our usual breakfast at the Kafe (Chiang Mai) we got away pretty close to the planned time of 9:30AM. The weather was almost perfect for this time of year, varying cloud cover, sun but not too hot, and the ever present chance of rain.
We swept out of Chiang Mai on Hwy 11 at a good pace with light traffic and a clean road through Lamphun and Lampang. Leaving Lampang we headed up into the mountains. I hadn’t been this way in a while it was nice to see the now green forests against a nice blue sky.
Our goal was to try and find some of the damaged areas from the recent flood and mudslides. Torrential rains has caused flooding and mudslides over a vast area in this region. Although the exact toll may never be known it is estimated at least 100 people are dead and missing and 100,000+ left homeless and entire villages wiped out.
We would then continue to Nan and do some GPSing the following day.
As we approached Den Chai we started to get a little rain and the roads were wet but nothing that warranted putting on rain gear. We could see where this little town had some minor flooding and there was a lot of damage to river banks but this was not what we were looking for. We grabbed lunch at a little restaurant and decided to loop back and south on Hwy 101 since the rain had passed.
We found this strange Temple just outside Den Chai
Hwy 101 is a great road twisting through jungle and pine forests and would be nice ride for sport bikers. The surface is good but rough in places though not much to worry about.
We cut east across Hwy 102 and turned north to the village of Laplae near Uttaradit. As we entered the village I could not understand all the traffic. The roads were dirty and covered in dirt and mud. Police were directing traffic as the electricity had been turned off in the region to prevent electrocution.
The further we went into town the more devastation was visible. And the traffic? People bringing food, clothes and water. Amazing.
DavidFL seems to have a sense as to where to go. After driving through the main road of Laplae until we could go no further, we doubled back and took some side roads that I thought were of little interest. They turned out to be some of the most heavily hit areas.
The losses are unbelievable.
Young and old, cleaning, picking up and even playing music.
A motorcycle shop will be doing a lot of business. Some of these bikes I believe were in the shop and disassembled when the flood struck filling them with mud.
Here is a letter I wrote that was published in the Bangkok Post
I have just returned from viewing the flood/mudslide damage in the Uttaradit area, specifically Laplae. I traveled there with my Australian friend on motorcycles. The devastation and loss of human property is hard to describe. I have seen the damage caused by the floods in both Chiang Mai and Pai, but this far exceeds those events in scope and area.
As we rode our motorcycles through the area and photographed the astonishing damage, we were even more astounded by the Thai people. With all their loss and suffering they still waved and shouted greetings to us. There was no fear of looting but instead neighbor was helping neighbor and friend helping friend. Instead of the region being cordoned off, line after line of cars and trucks entered the area. Not just gawking, but delivering food, water, and clothes from their personal vehicles. As we left, even more groups of people, four wheel drive clubs, and individuals were seen for many kilometers entering the area to deliver their goods and offer their services. .
Finally, two elderly Thai ladies, standing ankle deep in mud amongst their ruined belongings, were bowing and saying thank you and sawasdee to the line of departing vehicles. I wished we could do more.
The many complaints in these columns seem trivial when compared to what these people are experiencing. The strength and harmony of the Thai people is truly amazing.
We saw flood damage all the way past Uttaradit and along the highway. Way behind schedule we continued up 101 on into Nan. Traffic was fairly heavy with people coming and going from the flood areas. We rode into the night and arrived about 8PM I believe. About 540k total riding for the day.
We checked into the hotel and had a hot shower followed by dinner at Da Darios Italian Restaurant. Exhausted from our day and awe struck by what we had seen, it was time for a good nights sleep. No night life this night.
Reply author: Peter Hooper
Replied on: 04 Jun 2006 22:38:13
Saw your letter in the Bkk Post Dave. Well done. Better still with the photos.
ps. I have written to the Editor of the Bkk Post several times on different topics and can’t seem to break through.
“The Journey is the Destination”
Reply author: Big & Tall
Replied on: 07 Jun 2006 04:19:14
Excellent post. Sadly overseas you get little reports of this kind. Thank you for bringing it home.
Reply author: skip
Replied on: 07 Jun 2006 13:26:36
We are absolutely amazed at your news and pictures. We are 2 ozzies on our way north and although we have heard of the rain and floods there has been little news of this devastiation in S thailand. Looks like we have an “interesting” time ahead. Like you we have come across some amazing people here, especially away from the “tourist’ areas and their resiliance to problems make us realise how trivial our domestic worries are.
Thanks again for the news, ride safe and enjoy the journey!!
Skip and Rachel
Reply author: SilverhawkUSA
Replied on: 07 Jun 2006 17:35:56
Skip & Rachel
Thanks for your comments, just a bit of reassurance for you. None of the main roads are blocked any longer and there is nothing in the current situation that would interfere with your plans. Come North and enjoy some of the best riding.
Ever notice that “What the Heck!” is usually the right answer?
Reply author: Davidfl
Replied on: 07 Jun 2006 21:34:40
Silverhawk’s flood report is pretty much spot on – the flood damage was awesome & yet the affected people still seemed remarkably friendly & “happy?” It was an unbelievable scene with hundreds of pick ups driving into the affected area & distributing whatever they could to help the locals. Their generosity and sincerity to their fellow countrymen was moving, and both Silverhawk & I felt quite powerless just looking at it all.
Anyway back in Nan the day after…..
Next day was up at 8.30 am (super early for me, but after the previous day’s events & weariness we had most definitely been in bed early = no massages & no pub / coffee shop / disco drinks.)
Breakfast in Nan has never really been that great. The Fahtanin hotel we stayed at offered zilch, & the Dheveraj has generally been weak, if not disappointing. So I thought we might find something else / better, but after a quick cruise around Nan city we reluctantly opted for a chicken rice breakfast. And the verdict is that chicken rice does not quite do the job, especially when there’s no coffee. So next time it will be back to the Dheveraj for a “weakie!” Actually in high season, when it’s busy & there are lot of farang around, the Dheveraj does put on a buffet breakfast which is quite good, but you have to stay there to get it.
On the subject of hotels the water pressure at both the Dheveraj and Fahtanin is almost unbelievable. JimOi, plus David & Mai have commented on this at the Dheveraj. At both places it is more like turning on a fire hydrant, and at the Fahtanin this time round the shower in my room had enough water pressure to peel the skin off a baby, if not drown it. It’s that impressive. Exactly which one is better water pressure wise I don’t know, but the Fahtanin is only 400 baht a night & the Dhev at least 600 baht. However you do get better service & reception at the Dhev, which is a lot more professionally run. You get what you for pay I guess, but if you’re in a money saving mode, then go for the Fahtanin.
Back to the riding…….
The master plan for the day was to check out a couple of loops east of Nan, suitable for quick half day / day rides. There were two options I wanted to explore (1) via Santisuk – “Lak Lai” and (2) via Mae Charim – Nam Muap – Sa.
Pic above: R1169 from Nan, heads North alongside the Nan River & is a delight to ride. R1169 links up with Santisuk & from here you can head north to do the Doi Phukha loops, south-east to Mae Charim, or do the R1257 loop.
I opted to take the first one via Santisuk as it ended up on R1081 & the Doi Phukha loop – the most spectacular loop in North Thailand. The routes. nos for this loop are 1168-1169–1257–1081–1169. Total distance from Nan is about 120 kms.
Pic above: the start of R1257, running along the ridgline.
Route 1257 was a new one for me & believe me it is a fantastic little tight narrow roller coaster road and ride with stunning views.
Pic above: R1257, swooping along the ridgeline with magnificent views of the rolling hills.
Above: one of the locals out for a Sunday ride.
It’s a long time since I’ve been so excited and happy on a new road, but 1257 did it for me. Maybe it was just the fresh mountain air? Maybe it was the sweeping panoramic views. Maybe it was the non existent traffic. Whatever, R1257 is worth a ride in Nan!
I enjoyed it so much that I “might have” got a bit carried away with the photo stops, such that even Silverhawk got a bit disgruntled several times, and he seldom gets worried about anything; except for…….
Above: Yamaha TDM 850 sidestands can be very fickle things at times
R1257 is only about 35 kms but I think it took over 2 hrs to do! Some of this had to do with an extended drink stop in a Hmong village, Don Prai Wan about ¾ of the way along R1257 between R1169 & 1081. Somehow having a couple of bottles of M150 to supplement then chicken rice breakfast, I got way laid but the most wonderful pleasant 80+ yrs old Hmong woman ever. She was a fabulous personality and one of the friendliest Hmong persons I have met for many many years & it was indeed hard to leave her village shop. So if you’re ever on R1257, stop at this ol lady’s shop.
Heading “north” towards R1091, the shop is on the right hand side, immediately after you cross the bridge over the village stream. Don’t miss it now. You’ll have fun & be impressed with such a dynamic 80+ yr old super friendly personality!
Eventually ended up back at Santisuk, completing the first loop, but time was ticking by so it was a quick blast down R1225 to Mae Charim
Above: the exciting megatropolis of Mae Charim.
where we decided there was not much going on & it was time to head back to Nan for MotoGP…….
Yep it was Sunday & that was the other reason for staying at the Fahtanin, they have UBC TV plus a large TV for our regular fix of the Dr & the hot upstart challengers in MotoGP. So there’s another tip, if you want to watch MotoGP live on TV in Nan, stay at the Fahtanin, as the Dheveraj does not have it – only cable TV.
Last but not least….
Nan is the top dog for sport / road bike riding in North Thailand. Just getting there on either R1148 / 1091 / 101 will put a smile on your dial a mile wide. Nan’s got hundreds of kms of rolling hills with swooping twisting asphalt roads. And if you cant do any of the full Doi Phukha loops, then do yourself a favour & take R1257 for 120 kms of exhilaration!
Keep The Power On
Reply author: SilverhawkUSA
Replied on: 07 Jun 2006 23:26:18
David’s right about the Hmong Lady;
I got way laid by the most wonderful pleasant 80+ yrs old Hmong woman ever. She was a fabulous personality and one of the friendliest Hmong persons I have met for many many years & it was indeed hard to leave her village shop. So if you’re ever on R1257, stop at this ol lady’s shop.
He is also right about the fickle side stands. That’s the second time I’ve “dropped it”. This time only at the expense of a clutch lever and minor turn indicator damage. If you stop on a hill, make sure it is in gear and stable or facing uphill (you probably knew that already), but in the excitement of taking the 100th photo of a road that day I got carried away in the moment (just kidding David, we did hit some really good roads and got lucky with the weather).
Ever notice that “What the Heck!” is usually the right answer?
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